Houghton Bridal | Melange de Blanc Bridal Market Week Series
Katharine Polk, a Los Angeles native received a degree in Fashion Design from FIDM in Downtown LA before being offered a position at Badgley Mischka Couture in New York City as Assistant Designer to Mark Badgley and James Mischka. Polk, worked closely with over 25 licensees to ensure brand cohesiveness from runway to the store floor. Polk went on to become a fashion editor and stylist freelancing at a London-based publication and covered New York Fashion Week.
Est. in 2011, Polk Founded and was the Creative Director of Houghton NYC. Breaking boundaries in the bridal industry as the first brand to create Ready to Wear for the bride and bring a fresh outlook to traditional bridal designs, Katharine lead the brigade with her brand Houghton.
Katharine takes us on her journey, moving from fashion school in Los Angeles to working with Badgley Mishka, and eventually launching her uniquely inclusive bridal line. In a world enamored with size zero, Katharine’s commitment to offering gowns from size zero to 30 plus, is a breath of fresh air.
Katharine shares her insights about the role buyers play in deciding what graces the bridal stores and how she decides when a collection is ready.
If you appreciate a designer that accommodates all sizes AND If you love the story behind a business name, you’re going to want to listen to this episode!
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Speaker 1: 0:10
Hello and welcome to this versus that making wedding decisions with Kelly McWilliams. This podcast is for you if you're making a wedding decision and want to know what to consider before saying I do to all the things that will make your wedding experience a great one. I'm your host, Kelly McWilliams, and I'm so glad to be a part of your wedding planning journey. In each episode, you can count on me and my expert wedding co-hosts to give you everything it takes to make the best decisions for the wedding that you're dreaming of. Hi guys, it's Kelly, and you're listening to the very first episode from a special mini series that we're doing from New York City Guys, we are at New York Bridal Fashion Week, and I was invited here by a Coded PR who does press PR, public relations for some absolutely spectacular wedding gown designers, and I had the fortunate opportunity to interview 14 of them over two days while they were doing runway shows and presenting in their showrooms. It was spectacular. I was lucky enough to have these wonderful people build a studio just for us to record all of these episodes. What I will say is it is live, and when I say live, it means we're on one microphone, that there are hundreds of people surrounding us wherein, if I can describe what is, looks like a glass enclosed, full floor to ceiling studio. So you're it's not going to sound like it does on all the other episodes, and this is very much conversation with the designers. I let them talk about their, their collections and where they came from, and it's all just very organic. I'm so excited after getting to speak with all of these wonderful people with incredible, incredible dresses and I'm so excited to introduce them all to you. So just keep in mind that this is a mini series. There will be 14 of them and I'm not even sure yet, as I'm recording this, how I'm going to release them, but some of the interviews are like seven or eight minutes. Some are maybe 20 or 25. But it was just very organic and I'm excited to introduce you to some of these designers who are new and upcoming, and then some other designers who have been here and set the stage for the new ones that are 30 years into this, 50 years into this. It was just so exciting. I hope that you love it. I hope that you listen to these and then go look at their collections. They are absolutely spectacular. I guess we'll just get started. So, on this very first episode and again, let me remind you, you're going to hear noise. There are hundreds of people here and the buyers all come here to Melange de Blanc, which is where we're situated within the fashion industry. Here and there's runway shows and models and hair makeup going by and buyers who come to like buy the buyers for the most part to explain. They come to Melange de Blanc and come to the runway shows to choose what's going to be in the bridal slants for you to choose from. So they see all of the dresses here and they may come in to their booth or their runway show and they'll see the entire collection and they'll pick which dresses end up in their stores for you. So it's very exciting that I've gotten to see all of this happening and I'm excited for you to like get to know these designers because, after listening and talking to all of them, it gives a different dimension and perspective on the how and why behind their brands and maybe why you see the things that you do and I learned so much about the technical details of the building of a wedding dress and wedding gowns and accessories and things like that. So I'm so excited for you guys. Okay, I need to stop and get right into this first interview. This one is Katherine Polk. She's from Houghton and it does start out really quiet, but it's a great interview and I really do hope that you enjoy it. Katherine, thank you so much for being on the show with me today. I am so excited for you to be here. I'm so glad that Coded brought you in here so we could talk about this, your new line and your collection and your brand and all of these things. I'm just excited to, I think, maybe introduce you to a lot of people who maybe have never heard you before, and so and that's why you came obviously you have people to buy your dresses and all that. So tell me about how you came into bridal and what your brand is like, and then we'll talk about your new collection.
Speaker 2: 5:47
Of course. Well, first, thank you for having me. It's a pleasure. This is super fun. Yeah, I went to fashion school from Los Angeles. Went to fashion school in LA graduated I the real short version. I got a job as assistant designer to Badgley Mishka Couture and worked there for a couple of years I was able to kind of. You know, I was supposed to be an assistant designer but I was able to dabble in a lot of different areas like brand managing, creative and, you know, working with a lot of licensees and really learning like just being a sponge, absorbing all of that which I love. So I did that. And then after that I was a fashion editor for a couple of years and styled with styling shoots not necessarily bridal, just ready to wear editorials, was a fashion editor for magazine in London, did a lot of men and styled a lot of men, not dead a lot of men not a lot of men, yeah, and then I just I have to say it kind of occurred to me like I missed. I was putting together looks that I had in my head and I missed. I was like you know what? I need to go back to creating this versus trying to pull pieces from all different designers to make it work for you to create the vision that.
Speaker 1: 7:06
I'm picturing and I have so much respect for stylus.
Speaker 2: 7:08
It's such a hard job. People think it's so glamorous and the celebrity. It is such the opposite. It's so difficult, so much schlepping and hard work and it's great. I loved it. I still style a lot Like when I design my own collections. I style, the campaigns or the lookbooks, because I, like I said, I kind of envision the whole picture, whether that's like you know, if I envisioning a cocktail dress and it's a really edgy look, like you know, I'll put together the whole thing with the thigh high boots or with the on brook gloves. But to me it's more of that image, not just that one style. So, it goes back and forth, but yeah, so that's how I got into bridal and in 2010, I had the idea for a specific gown that was called the Cheney gown. She's gotten, she's pretty well known. You've seen her all over. It was a very simple, clean, all silk column gown with a cut out back and long sleeves very classic. And I had the idea to launch this brand called Houghton and that we officially launched in 2011. The name I was named after Katherine Hepburn.
Speaker 1: 8:23
And yeah, and Houghton is her middle name, so I love when I get to hear stories about how things came to be.
Speaker 2: 8:34
Cause you would. Who would know that? And you know it's. It's funny because I guess you get older, you know I love that she's my namesake, but you know you don't appreciate it until you really, you know, become an adult and get older and get more cultured. And you know, and when I started designing, I think it's always important you have something like a beacon, you know, something to look at and always return to, to kind of know what your brand DNA is, and so that was really you know, when I launched. It was truly. I still have the Katherine pant, I have a Katherine suit. So the first collection in 2011 really was ready wear for the bride and when I did that, I presented during ready to wear week in September. I believe my birthday September. But I, you know, showed at Lincoln Center, was invited there. I had it was kind of a different way of going about it. I already created the collection and it was, you know, when I designed it. It had cocktail dresses, gowns, suits, pants, separates, coats, so it was all for women, or it was all women, okay. But yeah, going back to you know, Katherine Hepburn is the inspiration, so the wide, like pant or affinity for men's wear, but she still was feminine. She was still a woman and like, loved a gown, loved a romantic look, you know. And so I always try and find that balance. What would she wear if she was wearing a gown? And it is more feminine, like, how would she style it? Or how would that kind of tomboy wear a gown? Right, there's always a contrast when it comes to hot and looks. So that was the first collection. It was definitely it was. It was a really cool time, but it was. I think we were a little naive, you know. We kind of we thought like, okay, we're filling this void, it's gonna be. You know, I didn't think it was necessary, I'm gonna be widely received. But you know, I just I knew I had this very clear vision for the brand and you know, press and media they got it. The editors loved it. The editors wanted to get married and hot, and and then it was a very strategic where I didn't want to launch during bridal week because I didn't want to be just another bridal brand. So smart, I wanted to launch during ready to wear New York fashion week so that people saw it and were like I could get married in that. That's really cool. I could wear that, you know, to my wedding weekend. So after that I we ended up doing a lot of ready to wear, because stores didn't know where to put us. There was never. This was the first modern bridal collection and they were like, okay, but can you do it in black? Can you do it in color? Can you do it? And so we kind of went in this other direction for a long time, because it was our way into these stores and that's so smart.
Speaker 1: 11:23
Well, it was smart, but it was also I mean, we kind of didn't have a choice, right, because?
Speaker 2: 11:29
like we were doing this and like in order to get in bird dwarfs, you know the, or sex. They would come and they see the collection and be like we can't just. You know, in their head they're thinking of buyers and merchandisers. Oh, we can't just put white on the floor. So they wanted us to create the suit and floral or you know print and I felt like I can do that. But it wasn't the brand DNA. The initial, you know, idea for the brand was really a white collection year round. That just continued and you always added to it. So long story short. Back then it was, you know, not as easy. Modern bridal was not a category. It was us really explaining to all these, you know, to these boutiques who had traditional gowns there's only one or two non quote, unquote, non traditional boutiques, so us really having to explain why this was needed, who our girl was, who was shopping and you know it was, it was an uphill battle for a long time, really not just breaking our brand but creating a category, sure, and I think we thought, okay, we're creating something new that's needed. We didn't think it was going to be so hard to really break that in Right. Everyone says they want something different. Yeah, they say it Until they see it. Yes, exactly, thank you Exactly, but they want to see it on other people and it's a catch 22,. Right To like get there and to get it on other it's. So it was definitely uphill for a long time. Fast forward, you know I had the brand till about 2018. We're doing ready to wear and bridal for many, many years there was years we did six collections- a year oh my gosh. Yeah, it got crazy Things snowballed. We were able to grow the brand. We were in 65 stores, 14 countries. I ended up stepping away from the brand in 2018. We kind of got into a point where we were a little bit at a bit of a crossroads. I mean we had good sales, we had a beautiful showroom here, but we needed, you know, the market was different. It was time for some changes, so I stepped away and I was able to acquire my brand as the sole owner in 2021.
Speaker 1: 13:40
So it's been two years.
Speaker 2: 13:42
Pretty recently I just bought it back and we are very focused on like a new direction, really growing the brand and I think you know it's so amazing and great to see how much the industry and the modern bio category has kind of caught up and it's definitely caught up Like yeah, and I kind of feel like maybe that pause is exactly what was needed, because I feel like during that whole COVID element, when things were shut down, people rethought everything, like I am not going to do what I don't want to do anymore.
Speaker 1: 14:17
And you were there, yeah.
Speaker 2: 14:19
So it's, you know, as, yeah, as able to buy it back in 21. And we're just, you know, laser focused on you know we have some things that are really important still obviously the design and the collection, but you know we really are trying to expand, do big partnerships, collaborations, I would say, like our three key important things are one where, you know, very sustainable brand were made in Los Angeles, with, you know, like equal pay. And you know it's, I mean it does make our stuff a little bit more expensive, but you know, it's hand sewn in LA.
Speaker 1: 14:56
Just so hard, like that's really hard to find, it's really hard to find.
Speaker 2: 15:02
The you know. The other key thing is every single style is offered from size zero to 30 plus. There's no additional cost and we would never charge, you know, more money for larger sizes. I just think that is something that really needs to change in the industry. And so we want to offer every girl to have the same experience. We want all these women to be able to come in and see themselves in the gowns, so that is really extremely important to us. And then we are delivery. Because we're made in Los Angeles, we ship, we have brides that we do, made to order and custom within a week. What, yeah?
Speaker 1: 15:46
So we still don't get it wrong. You're like. You know what? Everyone calling you tomorrow? I'm like so I'm getting married in 13 days.
Speaker 2: 15:55
It happens. I think a lot of girls are. You know they're conditioned that bridal needs six months to 12 months. Yeah.
Speaker 1: 16:03
We still yeah.
Speaker 2: 16:04
If we're doing custom or it's hand embroidered or any of those things, yes, we need ample time. That said, we have 30 plus collections to choose from in our archive style, and if there's things that are in production and we can create it and it's just, you know, it's silk or it's more simple, or we have the fabric and stock, then we will do whatever we can to make that happen for that bride.
Speaker 1: 16:28
That's amazing.
Speaker 2: 16:29
So yeah, so we I mean we do charge a rush fee, but we would, we say like 10 to 12 weeks is standard. It gives us enough time to work on production, but if you have a rush or you're in a jam, then we'll, you know, we'll make it work. That is spectacular. So yeah, I think you know, between the size, inclusivity, the sustainability, and you know us trying to get our gowns and the bride's hands ASAP is really important.
Speaker 1: 16:52
I love that they're made here so much, so much. How often do you get to actually work on a one with the bride? Is that often?
Speaker 2: 17:00
I know.
Speaker 1: 17:03
Well, now that I own the very small team, yeah, often I'm the one in the appointments working with them and it's been so cool.
Speaker 2: 17:11
It's been really great. We've seen a couple here. We took just a very, you know, few, few brides and I love it because you get the direct feedback you know what's working there's no middleman. You know it's very different when you're working with stores and you. you know you really want that feedback or know why it didn't work or why it did work and rather, you know, in our store, in our showroom, I can work with them and know exactly. You know, okay, you know what I need to bring up this neckline or you know, right of the feedback is as skirt is too full or whatever it may be. Or they love the silhouette, but not that fabric. We know that we need to make those adjustments.
Speaker 1: 17:49
That's so cool. So tell me about, um, I'm just, I'm like I'm envision, like, as you're telling me all of this, I'm actually envisioning these things happening. So I'm like two seconds behind. But tell me about this season, like what you brought here for this, for this, uh, this year.
Speaker 2: 18:10
So going, so one, we stopped, we stopped calling them seasons or named, you know, fall, winter, we're just, we started with season zero and we're going. One, two, three, four, that's cool yeah, because they're so you know it's continuing. So, we have those, and then we have our classic collection and then, obviously, if they, can I just say that is so much easier.
Speaker 1: 18:31
Or someone who's looking, I read, I read like there's been so many times where one of my clients will be like, oh yeah, it's so and so and it's, you know, the fall collection. And I go on the website and I'm like there's 10. Yeah, yeah, there's 10 fall collections. Yeah, which one are we talking about?
Speaker 2: 18:49
I don't know.
Speaker 1: 18:50
Oh my gosh, I'm scrolling. They're looking for all the pictures, so numbering them is so smart.
Speaker 2: 18:55
Yeah, thank you. To be honest, I don't even know what season we're showing this week. But I mean in general, like I don't know what season this market is, but we're just, you know, kind of in our bubble, we're just showing, you know, and part of that as well is, historically, I think, because we're so early to the modern bridal, non-traditional, you know, category is my styles, my designs, you know they've always gotten great editorial feedback and great support. The buyers and the brides are maybe a season or two seasons behind. Yeah, so that's part of the reason we also started calling in season one, two, three, four, and I want to go back. We've been trying to do one collection a year because it gives it time to kind of breathe and let that collection kind of settle in and people see it and like, for example, this week, the collection I showed last October is what has been. You know, a few of those top pieces have just been every single store's selection, really. So it really takes. You know, it's very different than ready to wear where, like, they want it before anyone's seen it. You know, here they need to know that it's going to, it's going to sell, the brides are going to love it, it's going to fit, and if it's a little edgy or it's pushing boundaries they want to be cautious about it.
Speaker 1: 20:14
Yeah, yeah. So you know, one a year makes a big difference. Having a little buffer yeah, I can see that.
Speaker 2: 20:20
And it's also funny, like we have been. You know where we're showing. We have some pieces that maybe didn't quite land when I presented them in 2013, 14, 15, and they're being pulled off the rock, you know, every day, so, and they've been in, like the selections, and it's just really funny how things come full circle.
Speaker 1: 20:38
Yeah, and I think that says a lot, though. Two years, I'm in your talent, thank you. Yeah, I mean that's really, when you think about it, like she's stood the test of time. Oh, absolutely, you know what I mean. Like you can look at anything and be like yeah, always, and you know it's like.
Speaker 2: 20:59
I mean we did you know bridal suits in 2011. And then people I mean there was no way someone was buying a bridal suit. A store was buying a suit back then.
Speaker 1: 21:09
Yeah, and now.
Speaker 2: 21:10
I mean, oh my gosh, hard to find a collection for them.
Speaker 1: 21:13
Yeah, Did those like fly off the shelves during COVID when so many people were doing?
Speaker 2: 21:22
during COVID I was still kind of saving up. I hadn't bought the brand back.
Speaker 1: 21:26
Yeah, so we launched kind of like towards the end.
Speaker 2: 21:30
I mean so they're like the suit I'm wearing, literally we get. We get requests for it daily.
Speaker 1: 21:36
We get.
Speaker 2: 21:37
I would say almost more requests from our stylist or celebrities because they want to wear. You know, women, I pointed out, you know, to my partner today was like do you know how many women have come in here in full suits and blazers? Almost everyone, I mean, I love seeing it. I love all the men's wear.
Speaker 1: 21:56
I had this one, not this obviously, but this was the look I had yesterday and I felt great and I felt so good.
Speaker 2: 22:04
It's like I said when I came in it's my uniform and I made myself like eight of them just so I didn't have to think about when I'm in an appointment or a meeting or anything. I just I'm like, okay, I'll put that on.
Speaker 1: 22:16
I don't have to worry about making Because I mean here's the thing is that they feel beautiful and feminine but powerful at the same time, which I think we all want a little bit of that.
Speaker 2: 22:29
And I will say that, being a female owner and owning this business, I mean often you don't get taken seriously and you really. We have to really strategize and think about what we're gonna wear in meetings. Whether it's an investor meeting, you're meeting with men, you're meeting depending on who you're with, it makes a difference. So when you're wearing it it sounds so silly and it's not materialistic, but it really boosts your confidence and it also it's not making it about your look or dress or right, it's her neckline or wear, you know, and it's just a no-brainer. It's like, okay, take me seriously.
Speaker 1: 23:06
I love it. I love it. Everything that you're saying is speaking to me and that I'm sure to my audience as well. So in this last collection you've got, is it all suits or?
Speaker 2: 23:18
So okay, so we have. Sorry, you did ask about the current collection. I went off on a Tantra no, but I'm so glad that you went there.
Speaker 1: 23:26
I'm so glad that you went there.
Speaker 2: 23:27
So we, okay, so the coin, we trademarked the phrase Friday to Sunday, which is means kind of what it sounds like, it's everything around the wedding, because I think we needed to really brand the collection in two different ways. So we have Friday to Sunday, which includes our more ready-to-wear pieces cocktails, minis, separates, body suits, you name it that can be worn from bridal to ready to wear. Right, you can wear it to your reception, your bridal shower, your after party, but it can also be a new year's dress, it can be a suit to wear to work. So that's kind of that mini collection that's. I don't wanna say lower price point, but obviously there are smaller pieces or evening gowns, so those tend to be under 2,500. And then we have the classics that we brought and then we have, like we go up to like $20,000. Okay, so we try and have, like you know, a wide range. So there's something for everyone. Like I said previously, we are trying to do one collection a year. So I created a small capsule that was like sizes 12 to 16 in April, but we didn't come to New York in April. So we're presenting that along with what we presented in October and our classics. So it's a good mix. It gives people you know, like I said, you don't wanna just present brand new they want. You need to give people like an idea of what the brand is Context.
Speaker 1: 24:51
Yes, yes, so there's a story behind the whole thing. There is.
Speaker 2: 24:55
I think it's important to have some. You know we have our crepe silk pieces. We say that those gowns are between like 2,400 to 4,000. Okay, Then you have lace like that's like 4,000 to 8,000 and embroidery and custom, and then they get more elaborate and they, you know, they can go as high as you want. Yeah, but yeah, we do. I think you know we've kind of people thought we were more expensive than we are, but our bread and butter and the but that kind of it's kind of a good thing. We all love when someone, it is for sure. But people also think, you know, some brides are worried, or stores think that we're, you know, that there were, you know out what's the word that we're, you know, outpriced for their store, their budget. But when you get into it, I mean really the majority of our classic stuff is like 2,400 to 4,000.
Speaker 1: 25:44
That's so great. I'm so glad that you came and talked to me today. Like I feel so, like I feel powerful in this moment. I don't know why that's so big. I love you so much, I love you too, but I'm so glad, so thank you so much, and I'm excited to like share you with everyone. You know, and I think just the things that you said are going to be a peak interest on a part of the market that maybe just felt left out of it for so long, and so now they can go find you. Okay, so where should they find you that?
Speaker 2: 26:12
So houghtonnyc.com, h-o-u-g-h-t-o-n. N- y-c. com. We were based in New York for 12 years but, like I said, we're in Los Angeles now. Instagram is houghtonnyc. Okay, you can. We're just. You know, we're very easy to get ahold of. You can email us, you can text us, you can call us FaceTime Zoom. What you know we want to cater to the brides and to our clients.
Speaker 1: 26:41
Yes, Do you have many brides that turn into like legacy clients and just come back to you for everything? Oh, for sure.
Speaker 2: 26:48
We've had really. You know, I love having those relationships with our brides. A lot of our celebrity have. Our celebrities that we've dressed have become really loyal to the brand and then you know, maybe their stylist brought them in and then we just become friendly and you know, start working together or they pull all the time. But yeah, you know, we have a lot of loyal clients. Can you believe that this is your life now? You know it seems glamorous, it's not, but I do love what I do. But I mean that success.
Speaker 1: 27:19
I mean and like, for I can tell how much you love what you do, I do, and to know that you created this and that, even with like taking, they've taken the step back, yeah, and then you were like, no, this is where it needs to be.
Speaker 2: 27:32
There's moments like we were talking about before we went live, like the you know, kardashian boat boards. I mean it's definitely no. I think, no matter how much success you have or press or whatever, I mean you have these pinch me moments that you're like okay, I mean it really takes a lot to get on a billboard, whether you pay for it or someone else you know, or it's sponsored or like this on the celebrity you know, to see your work in a major city like New York City or Times Square at Los Angeles, that big is really emotional. Oh yeah, it doesn't matter. You know, like I said, how much you've done. I hope I never that jaded. That it's not an emotional moment, yeah, so you know. yeah, it's great, it's amazing to have the freedom to do this and own the company completely.
Speaker 1: 28:25
I'm so happy for you for that. Yeah, I know, I know, I know I don't need for an hour, but like, look at her.
Speaker 2: 28:31
Look at so happy she has that now. It's a journey, everyone has their journey and it's definitely had its highs and had its lows, and you know it's we're still. We've had success but you know we're still. It feels like we started over.
Speaker 1: 28:45
Yeah, you know for sure. Yeah, so, but it's great it was. It was like it was a good start over.
Speaker 2: 28:50
It is a fresh, you know blank slate and it's really an exciting time. Thank you so much, Thank you.
Speaker 1: 28:56
It was a pleasure. I'm so glad to be able to share my wedding experiences and expertise with you, and that my co-hosts are so giving it theirs. We truly do want you to have the best time at your wedding, and our hope is that this podcast is helping you to make your engagement time while planning your wedding that much easier. May I ask a favorite of you if this is the case, would you just take a moment to leave a review of this podcast on your listening platform? It helps people just like you to find the podcast and to also find out their answer so they can make decisions. I would also absolutely love for you to give this versus that podcast a shout out on your social media. You can find us at this versus that wedding podcast on Instagram, and if you would like me to help you with a specific question, a wedding decision, please by all means ask. Send me a DM. I would love to hear from you and maybe, just maybe even have you as a wedding cast on a future episode. How fun. Here's to another great wedding.
